I've been browsing through Good Food on the Aga by Ambrose Heath (first published in 1933 and reprinted by Persephone Books), looking at recipes for October. I love the author's pronouncements, from beginning the chapter with "The season of soups is upon us", moving on to "The weather will now allow us to eat our stuffed eggs hot, an unfamiliar way, perhaps."
I also love the conceit that a few carefully chosen ingredients - and of course the Aga's own magic - can transform a less than appetising-sounding foodstuff into a delicacy:
"A Casserole of Tripe is an inexpensive and excellent dish," (I've never eaten tripe so I wouldn't know); "Partridges with Cabbage is a remarkable way of using old birds", and "Brussels sprouts can often be made more attractive if ... they are put back in the pan with a good piece of butter, some pepper and a little grated nutmeg; then put into a fireproof dish, sprinkled with some grated cheese, perhaps moistened with a little cream, which is browned quickly." I like sprouts plain and simple so that smacks of gilding the lily, don't you think?
"Apples make good puddings, and can even make tapioca palatable. Here is the way for whoever cares to try it..."
"Cheese dishes are always welcome for luncheon..." (I had a toasted cheese sandwich today but Mr. Heath might not rate that next to his Gnocchi alla Romana).
In addition to the recipes there are beautiful seasonal illustrations by Edward Bawden, and lots of helpful tips on using and caring for your Aga.
While my stove is a mere ten years old (a baby, as these things go), my friend Lindsay's poor Aga is almost of an age with the book, so he might profitably consult it to avoid any more dramatic moments - go and look!! (Though even his old lady has been adapted for a modern fuel, so he has no need for soot-rakes or riddling hooks, though perhaps her baffle plate has been misaligned....).
One day I dream of owning an Aga. Sounds like an interesting book.
Posted by: Jennifer | 22 October 2009 at 01:15 AM
Although I don't have an Aga (yet), my gas stove is from the 40's and I love it to pieces. With its pilot lights going day in and out, it's good practice for an Aga. Warming ovens and all.
Posted by: blackbird | 22 October 2009 at 03:05 AM
I'm with you on the sprout front - wonderful veg. I also agree with Ambrose that nutmeg and brassicas are a good comination.
Posted by: Ruth | 22 October 2009 at 07:44 AM
I have this book as well, though I can only dream of owning an Aga. I'm sure it would crash right through the floor of our flat into the flat below!
And I completely agree with you re tripe (pretty sure I don't want to try it in any form), sprouts (definitely best plain and simple), and Edward Bawden (the most brilliant illustrator).
K x
Posted by: kristina | 22 October 2009 at 07:53 AM
My father still has the solid-fuel Aga we grew up with, it came with the house and is possibly as old as he is. My parents would eventually give in to the heat and let it go out for the very height of the summer but come September the ritualistic lighting of the Aga would begin, usually involving my father lying on the floor with a blow torch and much swearing.
Posted by: Rebecca | 22 October 2009 at 10:35 AM
The illustrations in your book are wonderful! I've ordered the latest cookery book from Persephone more for the history and language than for the recipes. Your post reminds me that I haven't seen a package of tripe in the meat department in years! Can't imagine why...gag!
Posted by: Darlene | 22 October 2009 at 12:56 PM
I love plain sprouts, too and thought they could not be improved until I tried steam sauteing them with olive oil and a bit of garlic. Sublime!
Posted by: sherry | 22 October 2009 at 03:44 PM
On the first day after my tonsils were removed I was beginning to rather hungry by lunchtime. The trolley arrived with two options; liver and bacon or tripe and onions. I decided on the liver as the more palatable of the two.
I remember all that riddling, and filling of solid fuel Aga's. The first one I came across in my nannying days was extremely tempremental, especially when we were cooking Sunday lunch for a large number of house guests.
Posted by: Fran | 22 October 2009 at 09:24 PM
Kristina, I suspect your instinct is good. You might find this link instructive and entertaining is you have ever harboured, and who hasn't, a desire to be The Girl Who Is Not Afraid To Order Tripe And In Fact It Makes Her Even Cooler And All The More Sexy Because She Enjoys It.
http://carolcookskeller.blogspot.com/2008/05/french-laundry-at-home-extra-how-to.html
Posted by: Dark Puss | 27 October 2009 at 09:12 AM
They stir-fry extremely well too. I have an excellent recipe from Madhur Jaffrey somewhere I think.
Posted by: Dark Puss | 27 October 2009 at 09:14 AM