I've been out this morning at the opening day of the Jean Muir exhibition at the National Museum of Scotland. Photography wasn't permitted and the selection of cards very limited, but if you follow that link you'll see more of what's on show. Her classic, beautifully cut, fluid garments are there of course, as are sketches, toiles, swatches, even chalk samples for precise colour matching in dyeing fabrics and exquisite, craftsman-made fastenings.
Her clothes are described as "elegant and sexy, yet demure", and she herself called them "evolutionary not revolutionary". She was serious and professional, a creative pragmatist, concerned with every detail, and of the skills required to make her clothes she said "we must not think that if you do something with your hands it is not with your mind as well".
Apart from her trademark black and navy blue jersey dresses which drape and skim the body so beautifully, there are many examples of her work in cashmere, soft leather and suede, and some of her prints, too. There's also a short film of her talking about her work - she didn't like the noun "fashion", much preferring the verb - and on a Sunday morning, designing a collection in her large pure white bed, glass of champagne to hand!
How sad that she is no longer here to create such beautiful things.
Dark Puss would have very much liked to go to this exhibition. Although his recent interests have been for less demure clothing (but still sexy and elegant) he remains a fan. I like very much the B+W portrait you show on your posting too, who is the photographer?
Posted by: Peter the Flautist | 07 November 2008 at 05:48 PM
I WANT that black & red jersey dress!!
Posted by: Karen/NYC | 07 November 2008 at 11:03 PM
I once had a Jean Muir dress. It was wonderful. Absolutely simple but so beautifully cut. I suppose it got chucked out in a purge many years ago. Why oh why didn't I keep it?
Posted by: Harriet | 08 November 2008 at 11:23 AM
Jean Muir's style was so understated and beautiful, I used to go and gaze at her clothes when I lived in London.
Posted by: Rebecca | 08 November 2008 at 01:42 PM
To answer Peter's question, the photographer is Gemma Levine.
Posted by: Cornflower | 08 November 2008 at 01:42 PM
I have a black Jean Muir skirt which comes out winter after winter. It still looks and feels as good as when I bought it years and years ago (in, the sadly now gone, Jenners Designer Room!!). I will try and get to the exhibition.
Posted by: Claire | 08 November 2008 at 03:21 PM
Now that would be something to see...
I went to the Armani exhibition in London some years back, and was so disappointed: it looked more like a charity shop.
His clothes are ultra wearable, but look rather worn, whereas demure Jean Muir's are terrific even on a hanger.
My one and only is only on a hanger as I've grown out of it sadly.
Posted by: joco | 15 November 2008 at 08:22 AM